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3D Flower Fairies - © Jane Eborall 2004

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At last, the flower fairy has arrived after a three year gestation period!!  She’s not difficult.  Only split rings and a few beads.  The challenging part is perhaps the tubular arms and legs which are simply split rings joined to form a tube.  She measures approximately 4” when worked in a number 80 thread.

Materials required

No. 80 thread in pink and colours of choice, stranded embroidery thread for hair (or no. 80).  2 shuttles.  2 beads for eyes & beads for dress.  2 small ‘cotton’ balls (or large beads) measuring ½” diameter.  1 bead for neck and two others for finishing off.  Fine fishing line or strong invisible sewing thread (for joining parts of fairy together)

Tip – if you are not sure of your tension or thread size then make a row of rings and chains using 4ds for rings and 6ds for chains as in rnd 3 of the face.  Make it long enough to go round your ‘cotton’ ball or bead which you are using for the centre of the head and body.  Count the number of rings and make the centre ring with this number of picots but minus one.

Face – 2 shuttles – pale pink thread & 2 beads to add to p’s for eyes on rnd 3

Using Wsh1 and starting at top of head

Centre ring:       1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 Cl leave small gap before starting

Round 1 – fig. 1

SR1:     1 – 2 / 1 – 2  Rw

Ch:       ^ 4

*R2:     2 +(last p on previous R) 1 +(next p on centre ring) 1 – 2

Ch:       ^ 4 Repeat from * joining 3^rd p of R10 to 1^st p of SR1

Ch:       ^ 4 +(base of SR1)  Continue with

Round 2 – fig. 2

SR1:     3 – 3 / 3 – 3  Rw

Ch:       ^ 6

*R2:     3 +(last p on previous R) 3 +(^ at base of next R on previous rnd) 3 – 3

Ch:       ^ 6 Repeat from * joining 3^rd p of R10 to 1^st p of R1

Ch:       ^ 6 +(base of SR1)  Continue with

Round 3 – add beads to two consecutive p’s on rings for eyes – fig. 3

SR1:     4 – 4 / 4 – 4  Rw

Ch:       ^ 6

*R2:     4 +(lst p on previous R) 4 +(^ at base of next R on rnd 2) 4 – 4

Ch:       ^ 6 Repeat from * joining 3^rd p of R10 to 1^st p of R1

Ch:       ^ 6 +(base of SR1)  Continue with

Round 4 – place cotton ball/large bead into centre of work after 6 rings and chains have been worked – fig. 4

SR1:     3 – 3 / 3 – 3

Ch:       2 Lp (all chains on this round join to this Lp) 2

*R3:     3 +(last R) 3 +(^ at base of next R on rnd 3) 3 – 3

Ch:       2 +(Lp on Ch) 2 Repeat from * joining 3^rd p of R10 to 1^st p of R1

Ch:       2 +(Lp on Ch) 2  +(base of SR1) T & C

Legs – 2 shuttles no. 80 thread (pink) – fig. 5

Starting at the foot –the leg is made in one part and is tubular – Wsh1

R1:       6 ^ 3 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 3 ^ 6

1^st row – to top of leg

SR2 – SR11:     3 ^ 3 / 3 ^ 3

SR12:   3 ^ 3 – 3 / 3 (top of leg)

2^nd row – back down to the foot

SR13:   3 +(2^nd p SR12) 3 ^ 3 / 3

SR14:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(SR11) 3

SR15 – SR22:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(next SR on last row) 3

SR23:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(SR2) 3 +(1^st p R1) Cl

Ch:       4 Take chain behind R1 +(7^th p R1)

3^rd row – back to top of leg joining to the first and second rows to form a ‘tubular’ shape.

SR24:   3 +(SR23) 3 / 3 +(SR2) 3

SR25 – SR33:   3 +(next SR on row 2) 3 / 3 +(next SR on row 1) 3

R34:     3 +(next SR on row 1) 3 ^ 3 +(next SR on row 2) 3  T & C

Arms – 2 shuttles no. 80 thread (pink)

Starting with hand – the arm is made in the same way as the leg and is also tubular.  There are slight variations – Wsh1

R1:       4 ^ 3 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 3 ^ 4

1^st row – to top of arm

SR2 – SR7:       3 ^ 3 / 3 ^ 3

SR8:     3 ^ 3 – 3 / 3 (top of arm)

2^nd row – back down to hand

SR9:     3 +(2^nd p SR8) 3 ^ 3 / 3

SR10:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(SR7) 3

SR11 – SR14:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(next SR on last row) 3

SR15:   3 ^ 3 / 3 +(SR2) 3 +(1^st p R1) Cl

Ch:       4 +(7^th p R1)

3^rd row – back to top of arm joining to first and second rows as the legs

SR16:   3 +(SR15) 3 / 3 +(SR2) 3

SR17 – SR21:   3 +(next SR on row 2) 3 / 3 +(next SR on row 1) 3

R22:     3 +(next SR on row 1) 3 ^ 3 +(next SR on row 2) 3   T & C

Body – is worked in exactly the same way as the face but adding beads to all joining picots of rings.

Skirt – two shuttles.  Add 20 beads to Wsh1 & 30 beads to Wsh2 – figs 6, 7 & 8

R1:       1 – 1 – 1 – 1

Ch:       2 – 2

R2:       2 +B(last R) 2 – 2 – 2

Ch:       3 – 3

R3:       3 +B(last R) 3 – 3 - 3

Ch:       4 – 4

R4:       4 +B(last R) 4 – 4 – 4

Ch:       5 – 5

R5:       5 +B(last R) 5 – 5 – 5

Ch:       6 – 6

SR6:     8 +B(last R) 8 / 4 B 4 _BB^B 4 B 4

SR7:     8 – 8 / 4 B 4 _BB^B 4 B 4

Ch:       6 – 6

R8:       5 +B(last SR) 5 +B(R5) 5 – 5

Ch:       5 – 5

R9:       4 +B(last R) 4 +B(R4) 4 – 4

Ch:       4 – 4

R10:     3 +B(last R) 3 +B(R3) 3 – 3

Ch:       3 – 3

R11:     2 +B(last R) 2 +B(R2) 2 – 2

Ch:       2 – 2

R12:     1 +B(last R) 1 +B(R1) 1 – 1

Ch:       3

*R13:    as R1

Ch:       2 +B(last but one Ch) 2

Continue from * joining chains (with beads) to the chains of previous row.  Make five sections of the skirt joining the second half of the last section to the first half of the first section by the chains and adding beads to the picots.  After the last R14 has been worked make.

Ch:       3 and T & C to base of R1

Make further

R:         1 +(any 2^nd p on R1 @ top of skirt) 2+(2^nd p of next R @ top of skirt) continue all round finishing with 1 T & C

Hat – add 20 beads to Wsh2, further beads needed to add to picots

Centre R

R1:       2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2  Continue to

Round 1

SR2:     4 – 4 / 4 – 4

*Ch:     ^4 ^ 4

R3:       4 +B(p last SR or R) 4 +(next ^ of centre R) 4 – 4

Repeat from * joining last p of R6 to first p of SR2 (with B)

Ch:       ^4 ^4 +(base SR2).  Continue to

Round 2

SR7:   2 –- 2 / 2 – 2

*Ch:     B 3 B 3

R8:     2 +B(last p last R) 2 +(next ^ on rnd 2 – either middle or beginning of chain) 2 – 2

Repeat from * joining R’s to each ^ on rnd 2 and last p of last R to 1^st p of SR7

Ch:       B 3 B 3 +(base SR7) T & C

Sleeves – add beads (10 for each sleeve) to Wsh2, further beads needed to add to picots

Centre R

R1:       2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 2

Round 1

SR2:     4 – 4 / 4 – 4

*Ch:     ^8

R3:       4 +B(p last R) 4 +(next p centre R) 4 – 4

Repeat from * joining last p R6 to 1^st p SR2 (with B)

Ch:       ^8 +(base SR2).  Continue to

Round 2

SR7:     4 – 4 / 4 – 4

*Ch:     B 4 B 4

R8:       4 +B(p last R) 4 +(^ at base of next R of rnd 1) 4 – 4

Repeat from * joining last p of final R to first p of SR7 (with B)

Ch:       B 4 B 4 +(base SR7)  T & C

Wings – add 4 beads to Wsh2 – more needed for adding to picots – see fig. 9

Lower wing side 1

R1:       3 – 3 – 3 – 3

Ch:       8

R2:       3 +B(last p R1) 3 – 3 – 3

Ch:       8

R3:       as R2

Ch:       8

R4:       3 +B(last p R3) 2 – 2 – 3

Ch:       6 – 2

R5:       3 +B(last p R4) 2 +(2^nd p R4) 2 – 3  Change to Wsh2

R6:       2 +B(p on last Ch) 5 B 5 – 2  Change to Wsh1

Ch:       2 +B(R6) 6

R7:       3 +B(last p R5) 2 +(2nd p R4) 2 – 3

Ch:       8

R8:       3 +B(last p R7) 3 +B(2^nd p R3) 3 – 3

Ch:       16

R9:       6 +B(last p R8) 4 +B(2^nd p R2) 4 – 6

Ch:       6 – 6

R10:     6 +B(last p R9) 4 +B(2^nd p R1) 4 – 6  Change to Wsh2

Ch:       4 – 4  Change to Wsh1

Upper wing side 1

R11:     6 – 4 – 4 – 6

Ch:       6 +B(Ch btwn R9 & R10) 6

R12:     6 +B(last p R11) 4 – 4 – 6

Ch:       12

R13:     4 +B(last p R12) 4 – 4 – 4

Ch:       12

R14:     4 +B(last p R13) 4 – 4 – 4

Ch:       10

SR15:   4 +B(last p R14) 4 – 4 / 6 – 2  Rw change to Wsh2

R16:     2 +B(last p SR15) 10 B 10 – 2

SR17:   2 +B(last p R16) 6 / 4 +B(SR15) 4 – 4  change to Wsh1

Ch:       10

R18:     4 +B(last p SR17) 4 +B(R14) 4 – 4

Ch:       12

R19:     4 +B(last p R18) 4 +B(R13) 4 – 4

Ch:       12

SR20:   6 +B(last p R19) 4 +B(R12) 4 +B(2^nd p R11) / 8

Centre of wings

Ch:       8 Lj+B(1^st p R11) 8 Lj+(Ch btwn R10 & R11)

SR21:   8 +(3^rd p R10) / ^ 8 ^ 1

SR22:   8 +(1^st p R1) 6 / 8  leave small space before starting next SR to represent p.  SLT

Lower wing side 2

SR23:   3 – 3 – 3 / 3

Ch:       8

Repeat from R2 – R9

Ch:       6 – 6

R32:     6 +B(R9) 4 +B(R23) 4 +(^ base SR21) 6  Change to Wsh2

Ch:       4 +(base of SR21) 4  change to Wsh1

Upper wing side 2

Repeat from R11 – SR20

Ch:       8 Lj+B(1^st  R11) 8 +(base SR21).  T & C

Hair – using 1 or 2 strands of embroidery floss or no. 80 thread

Make rings of 1 very long picot (approx 2”) 1 etc until approximately 20 picots have been worked.  Cut leaving 2” end.  Repeat this ring several times until the required thickness of hair has been made.  These hair pieces will be threaded on top of each other and the picots cut.  They can then be trimmed (with a fringe) to the required length.  The hair can also be curled by wetting the thread and ‘setting’ by winding round a thin knitting needle (or similar).

Assembling the fairy - fig. 10 & 11

Using fishing line or invisible sewing thread take a bead which is large enough to separate the top of the legs and join the legs to this.  Take thread (double) up through the centre of the skirt, body, then through another bead (neck) followed by the head, hair and hat.  I used a bead inside the hat to give it more substance.  Tie and cut leaving a loop for hanging if required.  See fig. 10

Next tie the invisible thread to the hand and take it up in a single thread through the arm, sleeve, body, next sleeve and arm.  Tie to the second hand and cut.  See fig. 11

Finally sew wings to the centre of the body using the same thread as the wings..

If you have any problems or comments on this pattern please email me.