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Day 4 |
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Abbreviations |
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R |
ring |
- |
picot |
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SR |
split ring |
Sh1 (Sh2) |
shuttle 1 (shuttle 2) |
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Cl |
close |
+ |
join |
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LBP |
long beaded picot |
B |
bead |
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bttn |
button |
/ |
after / change to Sh2 |
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vsp |
very small picot |
RW |
reverse work |
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JR |
Josephine Ring |
DNRW |
do not reverse work |
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SS |
switch shuttles (use other shuttle) |
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Today's Pattern - please read suggestion section below before starting |
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I have used italics and red text to indicate where those who prefer to tat 'right side, wrong side' need to start with the second half of the ds first. The Josephine ring can be worked in the traditional manner but a ring made the suggested alternative way does produce a better look. See below.
R9:
5 + (LBP SR5) 2 + (LBP SR4) 1 make LBP (5 B) 1 – 3 Cl RW SS JR10: Josephine ring of 14 second half ds (please read notes below for an alternative way of working) Cl DNRW SS Ch: 6 RW |
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Techniques & Suggestions |
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Joining to beaded LBP's using core thread. |
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Work to the spot where you need to join. |
Take out safety pin. |
Pull the core thread through the loop, take shuttle through the loop and close carefully ensuring the ring continues to slide. |
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Josephine rings - alternative way of working |
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As most people will know a Josephine ring consists of all knots being made of one half of the ds. Either all first half or all second half (I find second half is better). The following method of working the JR gives a nicer texture. You can work whichever way is easiest for you. |
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For the way I have worked the JR's I suggest
working one second half ds as normal first. Following stitches are
made like this:- |
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Now drop the forefinger down and turn the knot as usual at the same time allowing it to return to the top side of the work. You will find an extra 'twist' to it which will give a firmer completed ring. See above left. On the right is how it should look after working four. Continue to work JR to complete given amount of stitches. |
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